What I wore, for three months

I debated hard before the trip about whether to take thermals. I did not need them. The warm layers. A fleece I would put over my shirt at night, and over that a thin down jacket that packs down to almost nothing. It is one of the warmest things I own, and the two of them together solved the cold at night completely. Shirts. Two, both long-sleeved. I walked in long clothes the whole time, even when it was really hot — I had convertible trousers I could take the legs off, but I always wanted long sleeves so my arms would burn as little as possible. They breathe well and are comfortable enough that most of the time they feel like short sleeves. Trousers. Two pairs of convertibles, one stretchier and slightly warmer that I wore in colder weather, one lighter. Both tore in exactly the same place, which you can sew. Underwear. I started with one pair of boxers and a pair of tights, and the boxers gave me a lot of chafing. Somewhere in the middle I got rid of them and switched to merino tights, which several people on the route had recommended. Long merino tights gave me no chafing at all, and I am someone who normally suffers from it a lot. Socks. I started with two pairs of ordinary hiking socks I already had at home. They tore fast and gave me a lot of damage to my feet. I bought two merino pairs on the way and finished the trip in those — they protected my heels, they breathe, and they dry fast. I also carried two thermal pairs that I used maybe one or two nights. Mostly you do not need them, but I was still glad to have a clean pair to change into. Hat, cap, buff. A wool hat I have had for years. A standard cap. And a buff, which I mostly wore on days without sun, on my head or round my neck when it got colder — and at night you can pull it over your eyes. Gloves. Sealskinz, waterproof, with full coverage over the hands. If you are wearing gloves out there it is because the rain is heavy, so waterproof is the whole point. They kept my hands warm enough not to freeze. And the rain gear, which is where I got it wrong. I started with a poncho and did not like it at all — I still felt soaked, and my trousers were wet the whole time. Somewhere in the middle, when the heavy rain started, I reached a town and bought a proper Salewa rain suit, jacket and trousers. Nothing got in. With the suit on I could not feel that it was raining at all. It is also very warm, and windproof enough to replace a jacket. It saved me over and over in the last stretch, and it was the single best decision I made about gear on the whole trip.